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Pasta Paradiso
Merlo is a splendid place for navel grazing. Along with Parmigiano-Reggiano, prosciutto di Parma, and balsamic vinegar, tortellini, those little filled pasta nuggets, are a crown jewel of Emilia-Romagna cuisine. At Merlo the handmade tortellini and tortelloni (same thing, larger scale) are divine, delicate packets filled with varying cheeses and meats. Among the five kinds on the menu, tortellini in brodo (here a pure greaseless hen broth) is austere and irresistible, while tortelloni with porcini mushroom sauce is rich and earthy. Tagliatelle bolognese, another specialty from this region, saturates the taste buds with its creamy, long-simmered meat and vegetable sauce. The same premier rago gets layered into the delightful spinach-pasta lasagne. The most adventurous of the 15 pastas is green tagliolini (ribbons thinner than tagliatelle) tossed with Sardinian bottarga (pressed dried mullet roe). It tastes provocatively briny, and the added kick of red chilies makes this an intense experience. Even the breadbasket includes rusticated crackers made with pasta dough.
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