Merlo recreates the style and substance of dishes typical of a restaurant in Bologna. The proprietors of Merlo are straight from Bologna. The front of the house is under the watchful eye of Giampaolo Sassi. The kitchen is under the careful attention of his wife, Luisa Silvia Marani.

If I have one criticism of the menu, it is the lack of some of the fabulous salumi (salumi is the general word for processed pork products, including sausages) of the Emilia-Romagna: mortadella (the original bologna), culatello, salame all'aglio (garlic-laced salami), or some type of salsiccia. Other than that, the menu is rife and ready with wonderful dishes.

We started with prosciutto pere Parmigiano e grissini. The presentation was as precise as the eating was enjoyable. The prosciutto di Parma was sliced thin and layered on the platter along with slices of ripe pear and chunks of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Traversing the platter were two breadsticks of a texture and size that I have never seen in this country.

The wedge-shaped tarta di carciofi was wonderful. Lively with the flavors of artichoke and mortadella into which was blended a hint of garlic along with parsley and Parmesan cheese. A small fluff of mixed greens, lightly misted with a balsamic vinaigrette, added to the enjoyment.