When good friends suggested we meet for dinner recently at Merlo at 2638 North Lincoln Avenue, the name suggested a popular red wine and perhaps a French restaurant. To our surprise, Merlo is Italian, and the spelling not as we expected.

With confusion out of the way, we walked into a restaurant handsomely decorated in the style of an Italian villa, with a menu to match. The goodness begins with a bread basket that includes herbed focaccia, but something even better, toasted ravioli squares.

This led to the expectation of some extraordinary dining. For starters there are a handful of choices, among them a salad that brings together thin slices of artichoke with sliced mushrooms and celery. There may have been a hint of truffle oil to bring together a combination of luxurious texture and flavor.

We came to realize how special this restaurant is with a pasta course. Our party of four shared two orders, risotto with a mix of fresh seafood, and an evening special, thin taglioline with tiger prawns. Merlo prepares their risotto from scratch. The wait was worthwhile. Perfect rice, plumped, with a hint of starch showcased a mix of shrimp, baby octopus and scallops among ingredients. Flavors were soft, slightly nautical.