Vacant for seven years, the gorgeous brownstone that formerly housed the Waterfront has finally been restored to its turn-of-the-century beauty by the Sassi family, owners of this new Merlo (the original Merlo Ristorante is still open in Lincoln Park). "We had so many customers coming from the Gold Coast who asked if we'd open a restaurant closer to them," says Giampaolo, the Sassi patriarch. The Sassis stripped and stained the building's oak banisters and floors and built three semiprivate dining rooms -- one on each floor -- and an inviting bar near the entrance. Giampaolo's wife, Sylvia, is the executive chef for both locations and chef de cuisine on Maple. Her Italian menu is full of dishes not commonly found in Chicago: homemade tagliatelle, green lasagna, tarte di carciofi (artichoke tart with parsley and mortadella), lamb loin with wild-berry sauce. The wine list is predominantly Italian.

-- Laura Levy Shatkin